To ring in the start of 2017, I travelled to Shanghai for a weekend with Christina and Jennifer. I had heard so much about Shanghai, particularly about the soup dumplings and the food.
It was disheartening when I found out that in the recent year, many famous food streets in this city had been closed down as the government began requiring all food vendors to have an official certificate. I’m sure this is a good move to ensure food safety and hygiene, but sucks for us tourists who were looking to eat.
With google barely working in China, I was having problems finding food street alternatives that hasn’t been closed down. Thankfully while walking around alone in the wee morning with my backpack (I arrived too early to check in to the hotel) I found one right next to our hotel near People’s Square – a short street called Huanghe road.
Huanghe Road isn’t as lively as food streets in other cities, but you can get a decent sampling of what Shanghai has to offer. It is also hardly a secret since it houses two of Shanghai’s most famous offerings: Xiao Long Bao from Jia Jia Tang Bao and Sheng Jian Bao from Yang’s.
Here’s my find on the road:
Jia Jia Tang Bao
Jia Jia Tang Bao is, no doubt, a must visit in Shanghai and is the reason why I was on this street to begin with. Their Xiao Long Baos, aka steamed soup dumplings – which i’ve always lovingly refer to as xlb, are simply divine.
How to order at Jia Jia Tang Bao
First you line up outside the shop. If you come after 9am, it should not be hard to spot along Huanghe road because the shop would already have a long queue outside. If you come early you might miss it since the shop is small and unassuming. I arrived around 8am and waked past it since it just blends in with the rest of the shops there.
Just look out for a white-painted shop with red chinese writings on it.
Once you get to the front of the line, look at the columns of red plastic plaque hung behind the cashier to see what’s still on the menu for today. On the top are the xlbs and the bottom are soup, sauces and drinks. For those who does not speak mandarin or read chinese (like me), here is a translation of the menu. Thanks to my friend Serena for live-translating for me via whatsapp while I was there. Go check out her blog for her travel stories and pretty pictures!
Jia jia tang bao’s English Menu Translation from top to bottom:
- 纯鮮肉汤包 – Pure Pork Soup Dumpling – 15 Yuan
- 虾仁鲜肉汤包 – Shrimp soup dumpling – 20 Yuan
- 鸡丁鲜肉汤包 – Chicken Soup Dumpling – 20 Yuan
- 蛋黄鲜肉汤包 – Pork Egg Yolk Soup Dumpling – 23 Yuan
- 蟹粉鲜肉汤包 – Crab Meat Soup Dumpling – 30 Yuan
- 纯虾仁汤 – Pure Shrimp Soup – 25 Yuan
- 纯蟹粉汤 – Pure Crab Soup – 99 Yuan
- 鸡鸭血汤 – Duck Blood Soup – 5 Yuan
- 紫菜蛋皮汤 – Seaweed Soup – 5 Yuan
- 生姜丝 – Ginger – 2 Yuan
By the way, I totally recommend the pork egg yolk dumpling. My tummy is rumbling just thinking about it… I also highly recommend adding ginger for extra 2 yuan.
After placing your order, find a place to sit down (or they will find one for you). You will likely have to share the table with strangers, which is pretty common practice in Asia. As eveeything seems to be made fresh, your order will then come to your table in approximately 10-15 minutes – Don’t worry, they will find you.
Once the xlbs are served, it’s time to eat! They don’t give you spoon here for some reason, so here is how to eat them xlbs – pick one up with chopsticks, dip it in vinegar and/or chili, then proceed to bite a small hole on top of the xlb and suck up the soup. Do NOT under any circumstances put the entire thing in your mouth! The xlbs will be served scalding hot. I burnt my tongue this way, and know exactly what Anthony Bourdain was talking about when he said these things can cause “unforgettable maxillofacial damage”.
We also accidentally ordered a bowl of duck blood soup. We were trying to order seaweed soup but mixed up the chinese characters. It was actually pretty good if you don’t think about it as gelatinous blood squares though. The broth is light and quite tasty!
My thoughts on Jia Jia Tang Bao
I think their xlbs are definitely a must try. Unlike many other xlbs I’ve tried, the broth isn’t very oily. In fact it’s light enough that even though I finished an entire tray by myself on the first day here (that’s a dozen xlb) and ate four Shenf Jian dumplings after that, I wasn’t overly full.
Then again I am known to be overly excited about food.
That said, I do think the xlb at Lin Long Fang or Nanxiang Steamed Bun is just as tasty if you don’t feel like queueing up. I just love Xiao Long Bao…
Yang’s dumpling is another must visit for its Sheng Jian Baos, the lesser known Shanghai-style soup dumpling that is just equally as magnificent as xlb. The concept is similar to xlb – it is a dumpling that contains soup and pork meat inside, but the skin is thicker and pan-fried instead of steamed.
There are now many outlets of Yang’s across the city, and lucky for us tourists, there is a Yang’s dumpling outlet right across from Jia Jia Tang Bao!
How to order at Yang’s dumpling
Ordering at Yang’s is much more straight forward as they have english translations on their menu.
First, you go to the cashier and place your order. If you ordered any non-bao items, like noodle or soup, you will be given a pink plastic plaque with a number on t and told to sit down. Your order will be delivered to your table. Again, it’s fine to share table if the shop is busy.
However, if you order any of the bao’s, you have to take your receipt and line up again at the window outside. From here, you can either ask them to put on a plate or tell them “ta pao” which means takeaway and they will place your baos in a plastic container.
For the non-bao item, I highly recommend the pork wonton soup and the hot and sour soup.
And that’s all! Time to chow down on your Sheng Jian Bao. You can even have these to go and eat while you are queueing up for Jia jia tang bao ;)
Jianbing for breakfast
Jianbing is a type of savory thin crepe that has earned the title of the most popular chinese street breakfast. I read somewhere that “bing” is the term chinese use for anything that’s round in shape.
I have absolutely no idea what the menu is saying, but I used body gestures to order and paid 4 yuan for it so I guess I got the first option? @_@
First, the cook would spread a thin batter over a griddle to make the crepe-like wrap. Then, he would crack two eggs and spread it over the batter, while slowly adding ingredients on top of it such as crispy crackers, scallions, pickled vegetable and hoisin sauce. After that he would fold the entire thing and cut it in half, and Jianbing is ready to be eaten!
There is a stall right next to Jia Jia Tang Bao so you can also get one while you are lining up. The catch is, as they are a breakfast item, they seem to be only available until 11am.
Butterfly Pastry at Park Hotel Deli
This is another store on Huanghe Road that would attract a long line of people. At first I was confused as google searches doesn’t seem to result anything, but soon noticed everyone seem to be walking out with one thing – a butterfly-shaped pastry.
I don’t have any pictures as I didn’t get to try this… but if you have time, you should definitely give it a try. There must be a reason why people are willing to queue around the block for it.
Various Street Vendors
This is a bit hit or miss in terms of variety of vendors. I came to Huanghe road multiple times as we were staying at a hotel nearby, and on some days there seem to be more street vendors than other days. In particular, I noticed more vendors on Saturday and Sunday morning.
Other things worth doing in Shanghai
- Walk around French Concession Area for hipster shops and nice streets
- Have dinner at Old Jesse if you can get a spot. This restaurant is apparently quite famous among expats living in China.
- Try Long Leg Noodle, a noodle dish sold in a simple push cart (don’t expect a restaurant) as recommended by Anthony Bourdain. I didn’t get a chance to try this!
- Try other Xiao Long Bao place that is not Jia jia tang bao. 麟笼坊特色小笼包 Lin Long Fang is hailed as the best in the city according to Locals
And that wraps up my experience of eating in Shanghai! In general, I was very impressed by this city. I can definitely see myself coming back here and exploring more of the areas I didn’t get the chance to see, especially the beautiful French Concession area.
Until next time :)