Bali, Best Of, Indonesia
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Ubud, Bali Travel Guide: What to do, where to eat and stay

I’ve been to Bali many times before, and Ubud is the one place I had always wanted to visit but never got the chance. I heard great things about Ubud and a quick search revealed plenty of exciting activities and places, so we allocated an entire week just for staying in Ubud.

A rice farmer tending to the fields next to our villa

Located in the mountainous region of Bali island, Ubud is known as the center of arts and crafts of Bali. Ubud is hardly “new” or undiscovered – in fact, it is a haven for visitors. All the infrastructure that caters to tourism is already well established here: locals speak fluent English, there are plenty of accommodation options from villas and hotels, lots of activities to do, places to visit and various of meal choices from the vegan organic cafes to authentic local Balinese food. Best of all, the costs are also still relatively affordable compared to Seminyak!

Where to stay in Ubud

We stayed at a villa called Mule Sayana Villa in Ubud (if you haven’t used Airbnb yet, you can sign up with my link for some discounts). I would highly recommend them. Everything was exactly as pictured – a one bedroom villa with attached spacious bathroom and private pool, a small shed in the garden where you can chill while looking out to the vast rice fields that surround this villa.

View from our bedroom at Mule Sayana Villas
Breakfast in our villa

However, the downside is that it’s very secluded – it takes about 15-20 mins by motorbike to the central part of Ubud each way. It might not seem like much now but if you have to do this every day, it gets a bit old. But still, I loved my stay at the villa.

Book Mule Sayana Villa in Ubud (if you haven’t used Airbnb yet, you can sign up with my link for some discounts)

How to get around in Ubud

Ubud, like the rest of Bali, is best enjoyed on a motorbike. Most the roads in Bali are quite narrow so you’ll most likely to encounter some traffic jam. It’s easier to navigate through the jams on a bike than in a car. Renting bikes in Bali is very common for tourists and quite affordable – it only cost you Rp 60,000 – 70,000 / day, and fuel is about Rp 30,000 for a full tank.

Aside from the bikes, while there are ride-sharing services like GOJEK or Grab, they don’t seem to be very well received in Bali. You can see many anti-Uber/Grab signs throughout the island, and the legality is still questionable in Indonesia. It’s fine to use them for longer journeys. We used Grab from our villa in Seminyak to Ubud. But your best bet for a short distance transport if you don’t want to bike is probably a taxi or hire a private driver.

Map of Ubud: Attractions and Restaurants

For your convenience, I’ve made a little map of all the restaurants and activities I will mention throughout this article. Here it is!

What to do in Ubud

These activities are located in the central of Ubud area, where it can be reached either by foot or a short motorbike ride.

1. Goa Gajah Cave

Goa Gajah means “Elephant Cave” in Indonesian. It might be worth getting a guide here since there is no explanation whatsoever inside. We didn’t, and I had no idea what the place is about until I read up after.

Entrance to the elephant cave

Outside Goa Gajah there will be ladies trying to sell you sarongs which you have to wrap around the lower half of your body before going into the temple. You could buy from them or you can just use the cloth they rent out at the entrance of the temple. The sarongs they sell outside are prettier but you shouldn’t pay more than Rp 30,000 for them – you have to haggle a bit for this price. At first, I thought we got ripped off buying sarongs here, but we ended up using it a lot on the trip (as sun protection while biking, or as an extra layer at other temples) that I think it was actually a worthy purchase.

2. Campuhan Ridge Walk

This is a short and very easy walk (well-paved) with an abundance of greeneries around the trail. It shouldn’t take more than an hour to go to the end of the ridge and then back, but you might end up spending longer time here if you’re taking pictures. There is almost no shade throughout the walk so I recommend doing this in the morning or late afternoon.

Campuhan Ridge Walk

3. Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary

I was reluctant about going to the sanctuary since I heard stories about the monkeys being aggressive and would attack if you have a backpack with food. While all of that is true, they are quite okay as long as you heed the warnings posted all over the forest: do not look at the monkeys in the eyes, do not taunt them with food, and most importantly do not pet the monkey even as they are perched on your head eating bananas. Personally, I wouldn’t even try to feed the monkeys.

A pair of monkeys at the sanctuary

Please take this seriously as some visitors had been bitten by the monkeys there. We saw a guy getting bit by one of the monkeys because (I think) he had bananas inside his bag and the monkey was trying to get to it – he swatted the monkey away and got bit in the process. So yeah, keep your distance and don’t keep food in your bag!

Lush rainforest setting

The place itself is very beautiful. It’s surrounded by lush rainforest and stone architecture that makes it look straight out of Indiana Jones set. So even if you decide that the monkeys are too scary, you’d still enjoy walking around the area.

4. Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Performance

Kecak is a traditional Balinese dance involving fire and the Hindu Ramayana story. They perform every Wednesday and Saturday at 7:30 pm. During non-peak periods, you can just buy the ticket at the door or any ticket seller on the street around Ubud. They cost the same everywhere – Rp 75,000 per person.

Kecak Dance Performance

I would recommend reading the story ahead of time (the event booklet will have this info) as the entire story portion of the dance is performed in Balinese – I speak Indonesian fluently and I still didn’t understand a word. To end off the night, there will be a trance performance called Kuda Lumping, where a performer in trance would step all over burning coal without getting hurt.

Activities near Ubud that is outside of the central area

The activities below requires you to get out of Ubud central itself, so you’ll need to arrange transportations for it. For us, we just rented a motorbike and drove ourselves to these spots!

But if you don’t have your own mode of transport, you might want to consider this Ubud Tour. It’s marketed as Eat Pray Love tour, which sounds cheesy, but really it just takes you to Tirta Empul and Tegallang Rice Field – both are well worth visiting!

1. Tegallalang Rice Terrace

Rice is a staple food in Bali. Okay, let me correct that – rice is a staple food in all of Asia – Bali and Indonesia are no exception to this. We love rice as much as Europeans love bread, and a meal is not complete without rice. As evidence of the importance of rice in the Indonesian culture, the Balinese and Javanese worship Dewi Sri, the Goddess of rice and fertility.

I once overheard an exchange between an Indonesian waiter and his European guest – the European guest did not want to order rice with his (Indonesian) dishes, much to the disbelief of the Indonesian waiter. “No rice? There is no meal without rice” he proclaims – and I can relate. I cannot live without rice too!

Tegallalang Rice Terrace
Tegallalang Rice Terrace
A farmer at the rice terrace

Tegallalang Rice Terrace is one of the most famous rice fields in Bali. This place is quickly becoming a famous tourist spot thanks to Instagram. It’s about 30 minutes ride on the motorbike up north. There are plenty of rice terraces in Ubud but the ones here are special because the rice fields are located on a cliff which makes for an amazing photo location.

Obviously, I took a ton of pictures at this spot so I’ll make a separate post on it with more tips and my recommended walking route, but if there is one thing you should remember about visiting this place is: go very early, like 7 – 8am early. It’s not so much about beating the crowds, it’s about the crazy hot sun in Bali.

We got to the rice fields at 10 am, which I thought was relatively early – but it was already boiling hot at that time. When we left at noon, it was even more hot and pictures just don’t look as great because of the strong direct sunlight. We’ve resorted to wearing our sarong as a cape to shield our shoulders from the insane Bali sun.

Also, bring some cash because you will be asked for small donations at certain spots (Rp 10,000). There are also drink stalls at the top of the rice terrace where you can get chilled drinks.

2. Tirta Empul Temple

Tirta Empul is a natural hot spring that is considered one of the holiest temples in Bali. Locals believe the water has magical power. Inside the temple, you can rent a sarong and go into the water for a blessing or you can walk around the courtyard and see the source of the water that is still bubbling.

People going for a bath at Tirta Empul Temple

I recommend visiting this temple together with the Tegallalang Rice Terrace since it’s also located to the north of Ubud. It takes about 15 mins more from the rice terrace by motorbike.

3. Kanto Lampo Waterfall

Kanto Lampo is a hidden terraced waterfall close to Ubud central. Okay, maybe not so hidden but it’s definitely less touristy than most other waterfalls – like Tegenungan for example.

Me climbing for a photo at Kanto Lampo waterfall
The river in front of the waterfall

To get there, follow the pin on Google Maps but keep your eyes open for local road signs once you get close to the area. They’ll lead you to the entrance of the waterfall, where you pay a small fee of Rp 10,000 per person.

The waterfall area is actually quite small – after the entrance, you go down a set of stairs and it’s immediately to the right. There isn’t much else to do aside of the waterfall itself and swimming in the small river below, but it does make a great picture doesn’t it?

We were also shown the way to a second smaller waterfall by a local guy, but the way to get there was kinda troublesome. You have to go further down the river, which is not very far but you do have to go through slippery rocks and wade through thigh-deep water on some parts, so it’s not worth going unless you’re really into that kind of stuff. The first waterfall is already amazing anyway.

4. Bali Swing

Disclaimer: I didn’t go here because I ran out of time.

I’ve seen images of this giant swing overlooking amazing rice terraces all over Instagram and I’m sure you have too. Well, Bali Swing is the place where everyone took these photos!

Bali Swings
Bali Swings

Bali Swing has five single swings of varying heights (5m, 10m, 15m, 20m, and 78m), tandem swings, two cute nests and amazing stone over the edge above the valley with an amazing view on the canyon and waterfall. They charge US$35 for the entrance fee, unlimited rides on their swings and lunch buffet. I thought the price was quite steep but you’ll definitely get tons of quality photos for your Instagram.

But if you want to go anyway, you can book this Bali Swing + Waterfall Tour, which will take you to the swing AND Tegenungan Waterfall for less than US$35, which already covers the entrance fee to Bali Swing!

What and Where to eat in Ubud

1. Bebek Tepi Sawah ($$)

Oh my god, I freaking love Bebek Goreng, aka Deep fried crispy duck. I came here from the Ubud Guide blog of my friend Clarinta, who had gone to Bali so many times I totally trust her recommendations. And she did not disappoint with this one. The Bebek Goreng here is indeed very authentic and tasty and the restaurant itself has a great atmosphere – you sit on the floor with a low table while overlooking a rice field (PS: “Bebek Tepi Sawah” means “Duck by the rice fields”).

Crispy Duck and Sate Lilit at Bebek Tepi Sawah

Aside from the obvious Bebek Goreng, I also got Sate Lilit (per Clarinta’s recommendation – it’s minced chicken skewered into lemongrass stalk and then grilled) and Avocado juice. General tip: If you see Avocado juice on the menu in Bali you should just order them – you won’t regret it. In Indonesia, Avocado juice is more like smoothies where they add condensed milk and chocolate sauce (sometimes black coffee, to counter the taste of the milk). It’s not a healthy drink by any means but it sure is a delicious one!

2. Puspa’s Warung ($)

“Warung” means a small and traditional, usually cheap, food establishment in Indonesian. Located right in the middle of central Ubud, I am surprised the dishes here are very cheap – they all range from Rp25,000 to 40,000, so much cheaper than other restaurants I’ve gone to in Bali.

Store front of Puspa’s Warung
We may have ordered a bit too much…

I recommend getting the Nasi Campur (which by the way, is a must-try dish in Bali), which means “Mixed Rice” this will give you a taste of many dishes all in one. I also recommend Chicken Satay and Guacamole, which comes served in traditional Indonesian chips (called Krupuk) instead of tortilla chips. It surprisingly made a great combo!

PS: Jalan Goutama – Goutama street – itself is an interesting place to hang out – there are tons of cafe, organic food and similar cheap warung around the area.

3. Warung Pondok Madu ($)

Annoyingly the location on the google maps location is wrong for this place. I’ve tried submitting the correct location, but it seems to have shifted back to the wrong one. Anyway, the location in my map above is correct so you can just follow that, or look for Jati Cottage in Ubud – Pondok Madu is right next to it and it should be near the Monkey Forest.

Mie Ia BBQ and Nasi Goreng ala Dion at Warung Pondok Madu

Like everyone else, I ordered the pork ribs noodle (Mie Iga BBQ) with the spicy sauce. And like everyone else again, I can confirm that the spicy level is indeed Indonesian level. I couldn’t finish all the noodles since it would just be torture but I finished the ribs. I would also recommend getting the Avocado Cup.

4. Hujan Locale ($$$)

This is another recommendation I took from my friend Clarinta’s Ubud guide. At first I thought the price was expensive – but in the grander scheme of things, it was not. The dishes here were regular priced dishes (US$10-13), which I guess was relatively expensive in Bali where I’ve been spending less than $10 for food, but not too outrageous.

But once the dishes came, I was very satisfied with all of them. At Hujan Locale most of the dishes are a fusion of local cuisine from all over Indonesia. I got the Duck leg with green chili and my boyfriend got the Solo Braised Soy beef. The beef, in particular, was amazing. Their portion is also quite large. We came here quite late and I wasn’t able to try their Rawon (it sold out for the night), but I definitely would go for that next time.

5. Fair Warung Balé by Fair Future Foundation ($)

While dining at Hujan Locale, this place across the street (or more like the alley) caught my eyes. It is food for a good cause – the profit from this restaurant goes to pay medical bills for those in need. The food itself was tasty too – I recommend getting Opor Ayam (Chicken cooked in curry sauce) and Capcay (mixed stir-fry vegetables), both dishes you can commonly find throughout Indonesia.

6. Naughty Nuri’s ($$)

I don’t think this place needs much introduction since Naughty Nuri is not a secret or hidden place, everyone knows their pork ribs and how delicious they are. Definitely get the pork ribs and some sides, that’s all you really need to get from here. And perhaps some Bintang to wash it all down!

Ribs and sides at Naugthy Nuri’s

Other places to check out in Ubud

1. Art Teas

Art Teas was a happy accidental find for us – we were just walking around Ubud central and needed a place to chill for half an hour and get a drink, so when we walked past Art Teas we just went in. To our surprise, they had a great variety of teas to choose from – a few local teas from Bali and Java, Chinese teas, Chai from India, just to name a few. What makes this place truly unique is that each table is equipped with a stove and tools for proper tea brewing. We ended up getting a pot of jasmine tea from Java, and the waiter proceeded to ceremoniously brew and pour the tea for us – reminded me of a Japanese tea ceremony!

Tea cups at Art Teas

2. Djamoekoe

“Jamu” is an Indonesian traditional herbal drink I had been drinking since I was young. Indonesians believe Jamu has health benefits, especially for women, so my mom would force me to drink Jamu everyday. As a child, I hated the taste but as an adult now? I love it!

Jamu is traditionally sold on the street by women carrying the Jamu ingredients on their back, and when you call them over they’d mix the Jamu fresh in front of you. Sadly this tradition is difficult to find now but I started seeing Jamu popping up as drinks at the organic cafes – mostly going for Rp30,000 – 40,000. Well, at Djamoekoe you can get a huge bottle for the same price! There are actually many different concoctions of Jamu, and I was delighted to find they have the same variety I used to drink as a child which is “Kunyit Asem” – consisting of turmeric, tamarind and cinnamon. If you like herbal healthy drink, I recommend you to visit this place!

3. Jaen’s Spa

This is another recommendation I took from my friend Clarinta’s Ubud guide. The spa is very simple and not overly decorated, but their massage is amazing! All of the masseuse are properly trained and their quality is consistent. Go and book the 90 minutes Balinese Massage – we booked 60 minutes massage and it was over too quickly. We learned our lesson and immediately booked 90 minutes massages for the next day.

Day-trip Activities from Ubud

If you’re wondering what else you can do in Bali, you can consider doing day trips! For these activities, I highly recommend booking the tour packages (I’ve linked the ones I used below). It just makes everything so much easier since you don’t have to worry about the logistics.

1. Mount Batur Sunrise Trekking

I wrote an entire post about my experience on trekking to the summit of Mount Batur, but to sum it up: This is what I would call a high ROI hiking – the hike was short and not that difficult but the view above is amazing. Mount Batur is right next to Mount Agung, so on a clear day you can see the still-smoking Mount Agung, which makes for an amazing picture. And because you start so early you’re basically done climbing a volcano by 9am!

Waiting for the sunrise at Mount Batur
Waiting for the sunrise at Mount Batur

But, I filed this activity under day trip because even though you finish the trek early in the day, you’ll still have to drive back to your hotel which takes 1-1.5 hours. Then, you’d probably want to catch up on sleep or rest up a bit, so I recommend not doing anything too crazy that day.

2. Adventure & Spirit Canyoning

We booked this canyoning tour by Adventure & Spirit, a Bali canyoning enthusiast group.

So this was my first time ever trying canyoning and… it was amazing! We did the Double K route, which includes rappelling down 15m waterfalls, jumping off 7m cliffs and sliding down 10m ravines. I am actually scared of heights so the 7m jump was especially difficult for me… but in the end, I did them all with minimal hesitation. I had no problems with any of the rappelling though, and I feel like I could have done higher ones.

Adventure Canyoning - Right before rappelling down the 15m waterfall
Adventure Canyoning – Right before rappelling down the 15m waterfall

The Double K route cost US$155 per person. I’ll be honest, when my roommate Jess told me about this a few years ago I thought it was quite overpriced. But after going on the trip I think it’s all worth it! They gave us all the gears we need (thick wetsuit, helmet, booties, harness, etc) – all you had to do was walk in with whatever you feel like wearing. Plus they pick you up from hotel to the location of the canyon, which is in the far north of Bali. Moreover, the guides are very experienced, super fun and I felt safe throughout the entire trip.

3. Do a day trip to Nusa Penida

Nusa Penida is a relatively undeveloped island south-east of mainland Bali. You won’t find all the snazzy beach clubs, organic cafes or trendy restaurants that has become synonymous to Bali here. However, it does house some of the most photogenic sights in Bali.

Although more convenient to do from Seminyak, a day trip to Nusa Penida is still very doable from Ubud – you just have to start the day early as it takes about an hour to get to Sanur. I’ve written an extensive guide on how to get to Nusa Penida here.

Kelingking Beach from the path to go down
Kelingking Beach from the path to go down

Ok, that was a long guide to write! I really hope you find this useful. As always please feel free to let me know of ay feedback and if you have any questions in the comment section below.

Are you looking for more places to visit during your stay in Bali? Be sure to check my complete Bali Guide. This post contains everything I know about Bali – which areas to stay, what food to eat and what to do in Bali.

Filed under: Bali, Best Of, Indonesia

by Melissa Hie

Hello! Welcome to Girl Eat World. I'm Melissa, the "Girl" in Girl Eat World. I run a popular Instagram account by the same name, @girleatworld, where I update my 390,000-something followers about my food and travel adventure. I love writing really long detailed blog posts about my travel experiences, which I'm guessing was how you ended up on this site! (Read more about me here)

20 Comments

  1. Sabrina says

    You are such a star. We’re going to Bali in October/November this year and having read your posts, they are BY FAR the most informative. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your experiences!!

  2. Payel S says

    Hi Melissa,

    Awesome guidance,, will try evrything you mentioned. I am a solo traveler looking to team up with someone for Bali..
    Pl suggest.

  3. Abhi Karthik says

    Thanks for such an insightful guide. Also, loved your style of writing and You are awesome, thank you for such share this information for Bali visitors.

  4. Carmen Heunis says

    You are awesome thank you. I will be going in June/July and can’t wait to try all the activities and great restaurants you recommend.

  5. Margaretha says

    Hi Melissa,

    We want to go in June (8 – 21st 2019) and are travelling with a 5 year old.
    How is the heat in June and are there any places NOT to go with a little one? Thank you in advance,

    • Hey Margaretha, it would be hot and humid, but that means its sunny with maybe a little bit of rain. best time to go to Bali! I think most of Bali is child-friendly, but I probably would not take your child to water activities unless s/he is very comfortable with water.

  6. Ken from San Francisco says

    I just wanted to say of all the Bali blog posts I’ve browsed, yours is the most informative. I’m going in mid October 2019, you’ve helped me research by a lot!

  7. Pingback: Spending New Years Eve in Seminyak, Bali | Girleatworld.net

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